Article by ALLURE MAGAZINE
Sexy? Yes. Sophisticated? That too. Cool without trying? Absolutely. The new piecey bobs are pretty much a perfect haircut—at any age.
“This cut works best on straight or slightly wavy hair,” says Diaz’s hairstylist, Lona Vigi, who likes misting on a texturizing spray while hair is wet. She uses a small vented brush while blow-drying bangs to one side, and lets the rest air-dry.
“I like bangs to hit around the bottom of the nose. It’s the sexiest length,” says Vigi. “They’re technically face-framing layers. But swept over the forehead, they give the illusion of bangs.”
Ends that hover just above the chin flatter a round face like Diaz’s. (If you have a square jaw, your bob should fall below the chin, advises Vigi.)
“Cutting into the ends makes her bob look carefree,” says Vigi. “If your hair is very thick, add long layers.”
“We were on a shoot, and Arizona said, ‘I want a change,'” says hairstylist Christiaan. To copy her look, ask your stylist to cut a jaw-length bob with bangs to your eyelashes and lots of uneven layers from the ears down. Then have her razor the tips of your bangs, the bottom of your bob, and the ends of each layer.
A long, graduated bob with layers starting below the chin “shows off a strong jaw and is perfect for heart-shaped faces,” says hairstylist Andy Lecompte, who used thinning shears to soften up the ends and add “invisible long layers” for a breezy, effortless look. To create Larter’s beachy texture, Lecompte tousles her hair while blow-drying and then massages in Wella Professionals Ocean Spritz Beach Texture Hairspray. (WE SELL WELLA PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS! :))
SHAGGY SHOULDER LENGTH
Call it the neo Meg Ryan. A long shag is equal parts schoolgirl and cool girl. And it’s the most democratic of styles. “The cut truly works on all hair textures and face shapes,” says Emma Stone’s hairstylist, Mara Roszak.
Roszak wraps Stone’s hair around a one-inch curling iron and then breaks up the waves by massaging in a dollop of pomade.
“We went for long bangs that hit around her cheekbone,” says Roszak. “They angle down from there, which makes them fall nicely with the rest of her hair.”
We’ve all had cookie-cutter layers—the kind that are long in the back and angle straight down from the jaw in the front. Here’s what sets celebrities’ haircuts apart: They never have those kinds of layers. Theirs are 007 discreet, stealthily adding curves.
To get Disney-princess hair, blow-dry the whole head with a small round brush. Then wrap the ends around the brush and shoot them with the blow-dryer.
“Long hair only looks good without split ends, so you need a trim every six weeks,” says Middleton’s hairstylist, Richard Ward.
Perpetually bouncy hair, like Middleton’s, benefits from extra-long layers, cut only a few inches from the bottom.
Layers that begin at the cheekbones flatter heart- and oval-shaped faces, while ones that hit at the jawline flatter square jaws.
Bet you wouldn’t guess that Bilson’s hair is actually curly. “I like her without layers,” says her hairstylist, Davy Newkirk. “When her hair is all one length, her natural curl is more relaxed.” Bilson’s only layers are at her chin and angle down sharply “to make them subtle and create volume around her face.”
Hudson’s hair isn’t chemically relaxed; her hairstylist, Tippi Shorter, razors layers into it below the cheekbones so it looks balanced whether she styles it curly or straight. “Using a razor is the best way to cut layers into natural hair, because you don’t want any blunt lines when you wear it curly,” says Shorter.
Her ends are between blunt and layered. Call them “blayered.” “I grab three-inch-wide sections of hair and give each a single twist,” says hairstylist Mark Townsend. “Then I use thinning shears on the bottom two to three inches. It gives you that tapered effect.”
“Bangs are the easiest way to reinvent long hair,” says hairstylist Oribe. Today’s most seductive, elegant fringe frames the eyes and blends with the rest of the hair.
To create these soft, feminine bangs, Oribe cut a blunt line between Swift’s brows with scissors and then angled the edges with a razor. “And they’ll be easier to grow out,” says Oribe, who cut her hair on a photo shoot.
Part wet bangs in the center and “blow-dry each half away from the face with a round brush,” says Oribe. Blow-dry the length of your hair, stretching it straight down and taut with a boar-and-nylon-bristle paddle brush, such as theMason Pearson.
Swift’s angled layers start below the chin, which keeps her long style from looking heavy.
Hairstylist Shelley Brien feathers the ends of Deschanel’s heavy bangs with scissors. “It softens them,” says Brien, “but it’s high maintenance. I cut her bangs once a week.” Curving the sides of her fringe plays up Deschanel’s eyes and flatters her heart-shaped face.
Curved bangs are shortest just above the brows and arc down to show off Michele’s cheekbones. To make her fringe thick but piecey, Townsend starts it two inches back from the forehead and vertically snips into the ends. “I cut layers from the chin down,” he says.
“I love a boy’s haircut on a girl. I think it’s superfeminine,” says hairstylist Chris McMillan, who notes that model Agyness Deyn’s cropped cut inspired Miley Cyrus’s short and edgy style.
Shocking blonde. “She’s 19—bleach gives this an edge,” says McMillan. “Highlights would have made her look like a golf pro.”
Cyrus’s hair is “really thick, so the more texture, the better,” says McMillan, adding that piecey bangs contrast nicely with her edgy cut.
McMillan lopped off the underside of Cyrus’s hair to make the look asymmetrical and modern. He used scissors instead of the usual razor.
“I love her ‘fro,” says Shorter, who has worked with Solange Knowles in the past. “If you stop relaxing your hair and cut yours short into a TWA—teeny-weeny Afro—this is a great style to grow into.” Once your hair is about five or six inches long, ask your stylist to keep the length up top and trim the sides and back to approximately two or three inches all around.
Using a razor prevents blunt lines, and layering keeps it from “looking like a teepee,” says Shorter.
Comb a leave-in conditioner through wet hair and twist small sections. Aim a diffuser at the roots and uncoil once dry.